Wicklow Way (1st Half - Dublin to Glenmalure)
After talking the talk for 6 years, we eventually worked up the courage to attempt the Wicklow Way, albeit only half (63km). A few things that stood out for me on the trip were; 1, the amount of non-nationals attempting the walk, the first groups we came across were both Americans, followed later many Europeans; 2, the friendlies amongst other walkers and adventurers, something that is most definitely and noticeably absent from urban life. And lastly, the peace and quiet, escaping the hectic world!!!
Options to consider, stay in hostels, or camp out. Honestly if you can distribute the weight of a tent and a tranja/tilly between a few people, it can be lovely camping out on a fine evening.
Day 1: Marley (Ticknock) - Knockree. 20km, 6 hrs
Day 2: Knockree - Paddock Hill (Brushers Gap hut - T 149 991) 25km, 8 hrs
Day 3: Paddock Hill - Glenmalure. 20.5km, 5.5 hrs
Day 1: Marley (Ticknock) - Knockree
20km, 6 hours: 11:20 - 17:15
Tips: If its nice weather, consider camping down by the river
The team met for breakfast at 9:30, a carb and protein load and then rearranged a few things in our bags mainly ditching unnecessary items. We weighed the bags as a fun exercise, mine being 17.5kg in the end. We kicked off the adventure from Ticknock, so essentially cut out about 1.5km of the initial walk. We set out up towards the Blue Light pub taking a right and all the way up to the Three Rock masts. Took the first break and team photo at the this point.
From Three rock, we ascended up to Two Rock the highest point in the Dublin mountains and down towards Tibradden and onto the road. Here we met the first group also attempting the Wicklow way in reverse, an American family on Day 7, couldn't have been at more extremes. After a short road section we turned off onto a smaller track leading up through a forest for the second and last climb of the day. We met a couple from Nashville Tennessee on that leg and had a quick natter about each others planned trips. The climb was followed by a steady downhill, some funky rock scrmabling and a cool zig zag through some head-height forestry. The path turns to road for a short bit and then eventually back into the forest for the final descent onto Knockree.
Lily the Lamb; and view of Knockree hill
At Knockree we avoided the unnecessary double back by cutting into a field at the hostel and made our way down to the Glencree river. Despite the no camping signs we crossed the footbridge and walked down the alongside the river to a quieter spot. The campsite was more than ideal, right beside the river with a nice patch to pitch the tent and also space for some nature gym. (Pic) As a whole, a nice easy day to break the body into gear.
Day 1 in truth was not the most breathtaking scenery-wise, only maybe a good few snaps of Dublin as you reach the peak of Two Rock. The main view on day 1 is of hills and more hills as you look deep into the heart of Wicklow. Maybe done in reverse I could see how the top of Two Rock would be far most appreciated bearing down over the final descent to Dublin.
Day 2: Knockree - Paddock Hill (Brushers Gap hut - T 149 991)
25km, 8 hours: 10:30 - 18:30
Tip: If camping, manage your water carefully.
The first half of Day 2 is much of a killer as it is mostly gradual uphill, climbing from the Glencree river up towards Djouce (over 700m height climb). We took our time getting up even managing to squeeze in a 20 mins of improvised yoga, couldn't beat the setting... peace and quiet down by the Glencree river. The ascent starts up through Crone wood, a very popular and well kept walk, an area within the Wicklow Mountains National Park and approaches the amazing vantage point looking directly at Powerscourt waterfall.
Tasting the Powerscourt waterfall; Djouce Selfie
At this point we met 3 Northern Irish men on the 2nd day of their 7 day trek, I did feel very jealous of them doing the full thing compared to our half, and in my mind i was saying, “fair fucks to those lads”, getting out and committing to the day 7 trek, I really hope I’m that active when I’m at that age. The climb continues with powerscourt valley in full view, until it eventually turns and makes its way up to tip of the waterfall. Here we got our much needed refill and our first taste of the beautiful fresh mountain water. The climb continues with a gradual incline on soft terrain in the direction of the looming but beautifully open Djouce(725m). The trail does not ascend Djouce, but contours round with a steady incline and as you reach further around the mountain the beautiful, and arguably most panoramic view of the first half of the Wicklow way, cue Pano Pic. Dublin, Bray, the Sugar Loaf, roundwood, and Vartry reservoir in view.
If sunny, this leg of the 2nd day is quite peaceful, sheltered from the breeze walking a tight track with a big enough drop on your left as well as a stunning view as you climb(below.
It got extremely windy once we turned the corner and approached the far side of Djouce, enough to blow you off balance. It did remind us that, when you are on the Wicklow mountains you need to be prepared for any kind of weather, no matter what the forecast says. Rainjacket and warm fleece a necessity for these mountains. At the Djouce crossroads you meet the first boardwalks that traverse the bog, a boggy bog at the time and that, as well as as being chased by a hoard of mountain bikers on their descent towards Ballinastoe, a very popular Mountain Biking spot. After we got over the lip of Djouce into some shelter of forest two ladies came running through behind us - on a mission to run Marlay to Glendalough in 1 day, a casual Saturday jog!! We did slightly feel like amateurs wrapped in 4 layers to their single layer skin. At this point (O 174 085), there is enough cover to pitch a tent and make camp for the night. It did look like a group had previously stayed there, noticing a pile of tinder remaining. For those attempting the WW in 4 days could use this as first camp, a 31km first day hike from Marlay.
Intersection for south approach to Djouce; White hill with lough Tay below
From here the trail takes you down overlooking the magnificent Lough Tay with Scarr (right) and Maoilin (left) in the distance. To the right of the lake is the famous Guinness estate, a place I learned Michael jackson and his family unwinded here for 3 months back in 2006. The vantage point is a bit of a tourist hotspot, with many people scaling the short 15min climb from the carpark to gain the a mantlepiece souvenir for their loved ones. We climbed down to the road and took shelter to have lunch.
The trail continues along the road for about 1km with the Guinness Lakes to your right hand side, until you cut across onto a track which continues through a forest and out around towards Carrigroe and the Lough Dan valley. We stopped for a stretch at a vantage point equipped with premade seats. This is where a local farmer approached in his digger and enquired whether we had seen any of his sheep, which we had not. We continued our stretch and even had time to get some handstands in (Pic) and (Pic). From that vantage point we descended down towards Lough Dan and as you turn off the wide track onto a trail you get the first glimpse of the Lough, (pic) and a lovely winding drop through small forestry.
Nice rest point O 169 044
Descending towards Lough Dan
After the climb down you come to a length of road, with a left bringing you on a 2km hike to Roundwood, if that is the desired spot for night two. We took a right and continued on the road past the turn off for Lough Dan and past the Wicklow Way Lodge. A very deceptive road climb ensues, the legs feeling the pain now as we passed the 20km mark. Along the road and just before the turn off for Paddock hill we filled up water at a stream (T 158 000) and turned right onto the climb for Paddock Hill. The climb towards the mountain hut was steady, sweaty and not the kind of uphill we need after a tough day.
Tip: If you need to fill with fresh drinking water, there is a tap at the barn on the climb that is free to use, however we filled up river before the Paddock hill climb.
We reached the Brushers gap hut (T 149 991) about 18:30, where we met the other guys who accompanied us for the evening.
Day 3: Paddock Hill to Glenmalure
20.5km, 5 hrs: 10:05 - 15:35
Tip: Avoid Glendalough on weekends
The day starts with a short ascent to get the body awake and the blood flowing again, followed by a lovely descent overlooking Laragh and towards Glendalough. A mix of track and forest trails mostly undercover from the breeze.
We stopped for a quick suncream and selfie break on route and met two Dutch ladies still full of energy on Day 4 of their WW trek. As the trail contours round the mountain there is a nice viewpoint through the forest at (T 134 971), the first view of Glendalough and the infamous upper and lower lakes.
view of upper and lower lakes
At Glendalough we rendezvoused with the others and departed on the last leg of the adventure, the climb up and over Mullacor towards Glenmalure valley. The next stretch was probably my least favourite of the trip mainly due to the masses of walkers pottering round the Glendalough trails. Once we passed the traffic we ascended by the Poulanass Waterfall that drops into the upper lake and eventually lost most of the leisurely walkers. The climb from here was a steady zig zag through the forest onwards towards Mullacor(657m). On route there are many opportunities to take picturesque snaps of the upper lake, round tower and surrounding mountains.
View of upper lake; short walkway onto Glenmalure valley track
As the path opens on the ridge of Mullacor, the boardwalks appear for about 1km as we traverse the bog and back into forestry now on the Glenmalure valley side. A tough downhill through some trees (above right), eventually opens at a path with a perfect view of the Glenmalure valley, the waterfall and fable Lugnaquilla in the distance.
The remaining leg travels down through the valley passing the Mullacor hut (T 092 924) and onwards towards the Glenmalure Lodge. Note if you have googled this and found information on the hut on http://mountainmeitheal.ie/, you’ll notce that the Grid Reference is incorrect, showing a ‘192’ instead of ‘092’. We finished the journey with a nice earned pint of Guinness in the Glenmalure Lodge toasting to a thoroughly enjoyable trip.
More to come..
